The faults we are called out for most often, what usually causes them, and what the repair involves.
Not cooling, but the light still comes on
Likely cause: Power is fine, so the fault is in the cooling side: a failed evaporator fan, an evaporator coil packed solid with frost because the defrost system has quit, or — the expensive one — a sealed-system or compressor failure.
What we do: The first three are ordinary repairs. We identify which it is before quoting, because the answer decides whether repairing this unit is sensible at all.
Typical repair: $180 – $480
Freezer is cold but the fridge is warm
Likely cause: The single most common refrigerator complaint. Cold air is made in the freezer and blown into the fresh-food compartment, so this is a failed evaporator fan, a stuck air damper, or frost blocking the airway between the two.
What we do: Usually a fan motor or damper control — a repair, not a replacement, on almost any unit.
Typical repair: $180 – $420
Ice maker is not producing ice
Likely cause: A frozen fill tube (very common), a failed water inlet valve, a dead ice maker module, or simply a water filter long past due — a clogged filter starves the ice maker before it affects the drinking water noticeably.
What we do: We thaw and clear the fill tube, test valve voltage and flow, and replace the module only if it has actually failed.
Typical repair: $150 – $390
Water pooling under the fridge or ice on the freezer floor
Likely cause: A clogged defrost drain. Meltwater from each defrost cycle cannot reach the drain pan, so it freezes into a sheet on the freezer floor and eventually overflows out the door. Can also be a cracked water line or a perished door gasket.
What we do: Clearing and re-routing the drain is a permanent fix when done properly, including the drain heater or clip that stops it re-freezing.
Typical repair: $140 – $330
Running constantly and never cycling off
Likely cause: Condenser coils choked with dust and pet hair (the most common and most preventable), a failing condenser fan, door gaskets no longer sealing, or a thermostat reading wrongly.
What we do: Coil cleaning plus a gasket seal test. This one also shows up on your electricity bill, so it pays for itself.
Typical repair: $130 – $340
Loud buzzing or repeated clicking
Likely cause: A rhythmic click every few minutes is the compressor start relay trying and failing to start the compressor — catch this early and it is a cheap part. Buzzing is more often a condenser fan fouled by debris.
What we do: Book this promptly. A failing start relay left alone can take the compressor with it.
Typical repair: $150 – $400
Water dispenser not working
Likely cause: A frozen supply line in the door (most common in winter or with the freezer set too cold), a failed inlet valve, a worn dispenser switch, or a saturated filter.
What we do: We thaw and insulate the line, or replace the valve or switch.
Typical repair: $140 – $320
Price bands are typical all-in figures for parts and labor on this type of repair and are not a quote.
Diagnostic starts at $89 and is credited against the repair if you go ahead. You always get a firm price before work begins.