These are the faults we are called out for most often. Each one is a repair we complete regularly — in most cases in a single visit, with the part already on the van. If your symptom is not listed, describe it when you book and we will tell you what it is likely to be.
Not cooling, but the light still comes on
Likely cause: Power is fine, so the fault is in the cooling side: a failed evaporator fan, an evaporator coil packed solid with frost because the defrost system has quit, or — the expensive one — a sealed-system or compressor failure.
What we do: The first three are ordinary repairs. We identify which it is before quoting, because the answer decides whether repairing this unit is sensible at all.
Typical repair: $180 – $480
Freezer is cold but the fridge is warm
Likely cause: The single most common refrigerator complaint. Cold air is made in the freezer and blown into the fresh-food compartment, so this is a failed evaporator fan, a stuck air damper, or frost blocking the airway between the two.
What we do: Usually a fan motor or damper control — a repair, not a replacement, on almost any unit.
Typical repair: $180 – $420
Ice maker is not producing ice
Likely cause: A frozen fill tube (very common), a failed water inlet valve, a dead ice maker module, or simply a water filter long past due — a clogged filter starves the ice maker before it affects the drinking water noticeably.
What we do: We thaw and clear the fill tube, test valve voltage and flow, and replace the module only if it has actually failed.
Typical repair: $150 – $390
Water pooling under the fridge or ice on the freezer floor
Likely cause: A clogged defrost drain. Meltwater from each defrost cycle cannot reach the drain pan, so it freezes into a sheet on the freezer floor and eventually overflows out the door. Can also be a cracked water line or a perished door gasket.
What we do: Clearing and re-routing the drain is a permanent fix when done properly, including the drain heater or clip that stops it re-freezing.
Typical repair: $140 – $330
Running constantly and never cycling off
Likely cause: Condenser coils choked with dust and pet hair (the most common and most preventable), a failing condenser fan, door gaskets no longer sealing, or a thermostat reading wrongly.
What we do: Coil cleaning plus a gasket seal test. This one also shows up on your electricity bill, so it pays for itself.
Typical repair: $130 – $340
Loud buzzing or repeated clicking
Likely cause: A rhythmic click every few minutes is the compressor start relay trying and failing to start the compressor — catch this early and it is a cheap part. Buzzing is more often a condenser fan fouled by debris.
What we do: Book this promptly. A failing start relay left alone can take the compressor with it.
Typical repair: $150 – $400
Water dispenser not working
Likely cause: A frozen supply line in the door (most common in winter or with the freezer set too cold), a failed inlet valve, a worn dispenser switch, or a saturated filter.
What we do: We thaw and insulate the line, or replace the valve or switch.
Typical repair: $140 – $320
Price bands are typical all-in figures for parts and labor on this type of repair and are not a quote.
Diagnostic starts at $89 and is credited against the repair if you go ahead. You always get a firm price before work begins.