These are the faults we are called out for most often. Each one is a repair we complete regularly — in most cases in a single visit, with the part already on the van. If your symptom is not listed, describe it when you book and we will tell you what it is likely to be.
Won't spin or drain
Likely cause: Nine times out of ten this is a blocked drain pump filter — a coin, a hairpin, a child's sock. After that it is a failed lid switch or door interlock (the machine will not spin if it cannot confirm the door is shut) or a stretched drive belt.
What we do: Clear and flush the pump filter, then test the interlock and belt under load. A pump or lock replacement is a same-visit job.
Typical repair: $130 – $320
Leaking water underneath
Likely cause: On front-loaders, the rubber door boot splits at the bottom where debris collects. On top-loaders it is more often a cracked drain hose or a failed tub seal. Persistent over-sudsing from too much detergent will also push water out of the dispenser.
What we do: We locate the leak under a live fill rather than guessing, then replace the boot, hose or seal.
Typical repair: $140 – $380
Loud banging or grinding on the spin cycle
Likely cause: Worn drum bearings, broken suspension rods (top-load) or shock absorbers (front-load). A sharp metallic rattle at high speed is usually something loose in the outer tub — an underwire is the classic.
What we do: Bearings and suspension are worth doing on a good machine and worth walking away from on a cheap one. We tell you which this is before you spend anything.
Typical repair: $180 – $420
Won't start or won't fill
Likely cause: Blocked inlet screens at the back of the machine restrict fill until the cycle times out. Beyond that: a failed water inlet valve, a faulty door lock, or a control board that has lost its mind.
What we do: Screens clean out in minutes. Valve and lock replacement is a routine part swap.
Typical repair: $120 – $340
Door will not unlock
Likely cause: Front-loaders refuse to release the door while there is water in the drum, so a drain fault presents as a locked door. If the drum is empty, the interlock solenoid or control board has failed.
What we do: We drain the machine safely, get the door open without damaging the lock, then fix the underlying drain or interlock fault.
Typical repair: $130 – $260
Clothes still soaking wet at the end of the cycle
Likely cause: The machine never reached full spin speed. Usually an unbalanced-load sensor, a partially restricted drain, or a worn belt or motor control board that cannot hold the high-speed phase.
What we do: Diagnosed by watching an actual spin ramp — the fault only shows under load.
Typical repair: $140 – $330
Error code, or the cycle stops partway through
Likely cause: Modern washers halt and post a code rather than run a cycle they cannot complete. Water level (pressure) sensors, chafed wiring harnesses and main control boards are the usual causes.
What we do: Have the code ready when you call — it narrows the diagnosis before we arrive and often tells us which part to bring.
Typical repair: $130 – $400
Price bands are typical all-in figures for parts and labor on this type of repair and are not a quote.
Diagnostic starts at $89 and is credited against the repair if you go ahead. You always get a firm price before work begins.