The faults we are called out for most often, what usually causes them, and what the repair involves.
Oven will not heat
Likely cause: On a gas oven this is the igniter far more often than anything else — it weakens with age until it no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve, so it glows but never lights. On electric, a failed bake element (usually visible as a break or blister) or a relay on the control board.
What we do: Igniter and element replacement are both routine single-visit repairs.
Typical repair: $150 – $340
Bakes unevenly or takes far too long
Likely cause: A temperature sensor drifting out of spec, a bake or broil element only partially working, or a convection fan that has stopped circulating.
What we do: We measure actual cavity temperature against the setpoint rather than trusting the display.
Typical repair: $140 – $320
Runs much hotter or colder than the dial says
Likely cause: Sensor drift or a calibration that has wandered. Most ovens can be recalibrated in the control menu; if it is out by more than about 50°F the sensor itself has failed.
What we do: Calibration is often a no-parts fix. Sensor replacement is inexpensive when it is needed.
Typical repair: $120 – $280
Burner clicks continuously but will not light
Likely cause: Moisture or spillover under the burner cap keeping the spark module firing, a cracked igniter, or a burner cap sitting misaligned after cleaning.
What we do: Often resolved by drying and reseating the cap correctly; otherwise the igniter or spark module is replaced.
Typical repair: $120 – $290
Door locked after a self-clean cycle
Likely cause: Self-clean runs the cavity hot enough that the door locks for safety, and a failed lock motor or a control board stuck mid-cycle leaves it that way. Sometimes a thermal cut-off has tripped and the board will not release until it is reset.
What we do: We release the door without breaking the lock assembly, then fix whatever left it stuck.
Typical repair: $140 – $330
Control panel dead or buttons unresponsive
Likely cause: A failed membrane touch panel, a control board fault, or a blown internal fuse. On a double oven it is worth noting whether both cavities are affected — that points at the board rather than the panel.
What we do: Panel and board are tested separately so you are not paying for the wrong one.
Typical repair: $180 – $420
Broiler does not work but the oven does
Likely cause: A failed broil element, or the relay that drives it on the control board. The bake circuit working proves supply and sensor are fine, which narrows it considerably.
What we do: Element replacement in most cases; board-level relay failure is diagnosed before quoting.
Typical repair: $140 – $330
Price bands are typical all-in figures for parts and labor on this type of repair and are not a quote.
Diagnostic starts at $89 and is credited against the repair if you go ahead. You always get a firm price before work begins.